Still being a NEWBIE, I keep hearing about the "action" of a guitar being "fast" and that it is a matter of setup.  Can someone enlighten a newbie as to what this actually means?  I think it refers to the height of the strings above the fret board.  How does this affect action?  Wouldn't having too little clearance give a lot of buzz?  And, what is generally the way to go for a newbie, high or low, fast or slow?

Dean

..."action" is the height of the strings off the fretboard...with "HIGH" being associated with greater volume/attack/tone and "LOW" being associated with light-touch/playing ease/fast playing.

...note that BOTH are OK...and BOTH have drawbacks, ie: lower action often "buzzes" and frets-out quicker or with aggressive playing, while higher action requires stronger fingers and callouses.

OTM................  So, for a newbie like me, I'd probably want a "fast" or "low" action.  Right?  I am developing my callouses but haven't gotten the necessary finger strength or dexterity for high forces on the strings.

I'm using a very soft pick on my guitar (accoustic), so my strumming isn't very agressive.  Besides, I'm still working on strumming chords and haven't even thought of pickin' any kind of lead stuff.  I want to get a GOOD handle on chords progressions/groupings and changes before I start looking into actually playing MUSIC.

Thanks,

Dean

BTW:  I've enjoyed following your "101" class.  The engineer in me likes the theory.

...actually, I tell people to "start" on a NYLON string guitar...MUCH, much easier on the fingers (but harder to keep in tune).




...and, would it surprise you to know that I am an engineer (and ex-college instructor)?

With your attention to detail it doesn't surprise me you're a technical person.  I got my BSME ('72) and MSEM ('82) degrees from Milwaukee School of Engineering.  Where and What did you teach??

My Epi stays in tune VERY well with the Grover tuners on it.

Who and/how would be able to give me an indication of the "action"?  I'm up in Northern Wisconsin so don't think I have EASY access to a luthier in my area.  I'll have to talk to some players in the area for their recommendation if that's what I need to do.

Thanks fo rthe reply!!

Dean

...adjusting the ACTION (or string heights) is done at the bridge, either all at once (Gibson bridges) using the two adjusting thimble-screws, or individually (Fender type bridges) using the adjusting screws on each saddle.

...additionally, there's the RELIEF (or neck "bow") which also affects playing smoothness. It amounts to tweeking the "truss rod" tension nut (either at headstock (Gibsons, etc.) or butt-end of the neck (Fender, etc.)). The idea is to have a slight amount of "bow" in the neck, about 0.010-0.012" at the middle of the fretboad with the string(s) depressed at the last fret. Contrary to common thought, you really do NOT want the fretboard to be perfectly FLAT and straight...why? The slight amount of neck "bow" allows the strings to "vibrate" over their length without hitting ('buzzing") when being fretted...too little bow produces "buzzing" (occurs during normal playing chording) or "fretting-out" (occurs when bending strings across the fretboard). Typically, the harder you play or the more you bend strings, the more relief you need. A light playing action and chording usually enables you to use the least amount of relief.

...Fender and Gibson post "recommended" distances and measurement points (XX-inches at fret YY), which is the best place to START.

...adjusting the action AND relief commonly becomes necessary AFTER you've either: (a) changed GAUGE of strings (medium gauge to light-gauge, etc.); (b) changed TYPE of strings (round wound to flat- or ground-wound, etc.); or, (c) changed TENSION on the strings (tuned DOWN or UP in pitch).

...and, unfortunately, it's a somewhat tedious iterative process: FIRST you adjust ACTION by adjusting the BRIDGE height (UP & DOWN position) and string intonation (FORE and AFT position). THEN you check/set the relief...IF too much (large bow), the truss rod needs to be tightened (adding more tension into neck to overcome string tension); if too little (not enough bow), the truss rod needs to be loosened (removing some tension). NEVER tweek the truss rod adjustor more than about 1/4 turn at a time! I turn it 1/2-turn, then BACK it down 1/4-turn, to overcome friction 'stick' and ensure a smoother movement.

...caveat: stuck and rusted truss rod nuts can be a bear!

For now I think I'll just leave it as is.  For the stage of playing I'm at, I don't think it's that big a deal.  Like I said, I'm at the stage where I'm learning chords, progressions and changes so I can eventually MAKE MUSIC.  If the action is high, it'll just force me to get the strength in my hand.  That should only make it better for me in the future.

I'm going to take a look at the Gibson site for their recommendations and get my feeler gages out to check mine.  OR maybe get a few local players to take a look and give me an opinion.  I did find out that there is a luthier up here in the area.  He and his wife play blue grass and he makes mandolins.  Maybe if I can find him, he can give me an opinion.

Thanks a BUNCH for the info,

Dean

HINT -- you don't need feeler gauges (although, I too used to use them), just a couple short pieces of 0.010" and 0.012" plain-gauge string handy.

...I saved the 'ball-end' of some used strings and keep them on a snap ring: 0.010", 0.012", 0.014", 0.16" plus a couple of the wound strings (dipped in clear finger-nail polish to keep them from unraveling).

I'm gonna have to resort to feeler gages.  I don't have "guitar stuff" accumulated around here just yet.  I only have one guitar bought used that they put new strings on for me. So, I don't have a "stash" to go to.

When I get to the point that I need new strings is when I'll take these off so I can diagnose why my accoustic pickup isn't working.  I see there is a wire laying loose in the body.  Right now I don't have an amp and have no immediate intentions to get one, so it's a non-issue.  When I get ready to "destring" is when I'll get the gages out and check my setup.

THANKS AGAIN,

Dean

OTM..............I just measured my string gap at the 12th fret:
5/64 at the lower E string
7/64 at the upper E string.

According to a poster on the Epi site, this is right on the specs they recommend.  So, I'm feeling pretty good about the condition/care my guitar has gotten over the years.

Thanks Again,

Dean